What A Beautiful Diaper Cake!

Hi everyone! I know it's been a while since I posted, I guess I just needed a break as it's not just that I didn't post, I also haven't done anything creative to post about. That is until now. It's not sewing but it was fun none the less.

We had a shower yesterday for my oldest daughter Stephanie and I just wanted to show you the diaper cake I made for the shower. It turned out gorgeous and it's was a hit at the shower.

Since this isn't something I do everyday, I searched the internet for inspiration and instructions. There were so many different ways to make a diaper cake so my first problem was to decide which method I would use. I finally decided on what I call the "swirl" method and I found the instructions on YouTube. The video provided by Becca at Diaper Cakes by Becca (http://www.DiaperCakesByBecca.com) on YouTube at this link - Diaper Cake Video was perfect to get me going.

Below are a few pics from my assembly. The most genius thing (at least I think so) was how I put the words "BABY" on the cake. I hot glued a long pin to the back of the letter, the pin was on of the long ones with the yellow flower on top. Then I just stuck it into the diapers. Lastly, to keep the baby angel on top, I used (again) long pins. I didn't use hot glue anywhere that would touch the diapers but I did glue the bows and duckies to the green silk leaves so they would stay in place.

Oh also, the base is just a thick foam core board I bought at Michaels. Then I wrapped it in some cute wrapping paper. It was the perfect size. I first thought I would buy a cake base but none of them were big enough, I think this is cuter anyway.

I know this isn't a complete tutorial but I wasn't thinking to take pics. Go to Becca's YouTube vid to get details. 

Layer 1 held together with scrap ribbon

 Later!

Reba

I'm In The Movies! Intro Video: How To Make A Purse Using Simplicity 2685

Well, I got the first video done! It's live on YouTube!

It was much harder than I thought it would be. I thought I could just "wing it" with the intro but after about 15 takes I ended up writing a script and even making a cue card of sorts. It's going to take some time to get used to being in front of the camera, but I think I'll get there (probably with every pound I lose I'll get more and more comfortable!).

I needed video editing software that wasn't too expensive so I searched Google and found AVS4You.com. It's only $29.95 for 1 year or $59.95 for unlimited lifetime. I chose the lifetime since I plan on doing this for a while. The software is very comprehensive for the small amount you pay. I was able to do lay-overs, text, and transitions, and you can add audio overlay too. I imagine if I want to get "really" in to video editing I would need more but this will do me for now. Oh, and with the unlimited subscription you can download all their software. In addition to the video editing software, yesterday I used their video file format changer. It worked great to change my MP4 to a WMV. If you need a good, but inexpensive video editing program that's easy to use, give it a try. Below is the link, I signed up for the affiliate program but don't have the link yet - when I get it - I will change the link to be my affiliate link.

http://www.avs4you.com

Anyway, here's my debut...

I'm going to try to get the next video done tomorrow, maybe edited too. I'll post if I do. I tried today but I'm using a Flip Video and it ran out of juice. It takes 3 hours to charge and I ran out of light. Hopefully tomorrow will be better.

In the next video I'm going to cover how to cut out the fabric. My fabric has a design that needs to match at the seams so I'm going to cover that as well.

Please let me know what you think...I can take it. Critiques make my products better. Oh, and I know this one is a bit boring, I'm sure I'll get better with time (and weight loss!).

Looking forward to hearing from you - until later ~

Reba

What Would I Change On This Commercial Pattern?

I'm currently making a diaper bag from McCalls Pattern M4403 and I'm finding tons of things that I would do differently. Do you make changes to patterns after you figure out that there's a better way to do it? I thought it would interesting to outline the changes I would make - so far. I've only just started sewing this thing!

The picture to the left shows how the front will look when it's all sewed together. I only have the flap and handle laid out so you can get a good idea. I love how the design on the flap over the pocket matches the design behind it. It gives it a really professional look. It takes extra time and care to get it right but it's so worth it. 

If you want to know how I did it, check out my post - How to Cut Fabric With A Directional Design For A Professional Look

1. First thing I decided to change on this pattern was the palette on the front. Really? Like a baby would really fit on that palette. Well, maybe, but only for the first week of her sweet little life. I used the flap but removed the palette and added a big pocket on the front. It will close with a magnetic closure, I hate Velcro in that application.
2. I should have realized when I was cutting out the pattern that the bag would be WAY too small. It's only 14" across. Good for a trip to the grocery store but you would need three of these bags for a day trip. It needs to be at minimum 18"-20" across. Most Amy Butler purse patterns are four times this big...okay, that's an exaggeration, but you know what I mean.
3. Next, the pattern calls for fleece to be sewn in to give it the cushy feel. Okay, that will work but don't they know that we have some great interfacings on the market now that are fusible? I used fusible fleece on the outer pieces and fusible woven on the lining pieces. If you need to know more about the interfacings I use for purses, handbags, and yes, diaper bags, see my post - 3 Best Interfacings I Use When Making Handbags
4. The next thing that I should have changed but decided to follow the pattern (next time I'll do it my way) is how the straps sewn to the front and back of the bag are done. I also would change how they made the handles and strap. The pattern asks you to press 3/8" down both long sides and then sew to the front and back of the bag. For the handles and strap, it has you do the same and then fold in half and edge stitch along the open edge.
   
   It was hard to iron the edges with the fleece, so I cut back the fleece before I fused. Still it was hard to get the folded ironed edge straight. My method would be to cut the pieces twice as wide as I want them to be. Then cut the fleece half that width. Press a fold lengthwise down the center to use as a guide. Then fold each long raw edge to the middle fold and press. Place the fleece in the center between the two folds and fuse. Then fold the edges over the fleece and press. This gives the pieces straight edges. If you want a better explanation with photos, check my Molly Handbag pattern, there's a full explanation - Free Molly Handbag Pattern
   
5. 
   Lastly, for this post anyway, I may have more suggested changes before I finish, I made the handles rolled. It gives it a much more professional look in my opinion and it's so easy to do. You just make the handle as normal with topstitching, then, fold it in half in the middle portion and sew again on top of the topstitching being sure to back-stitch several times to make sure it doesn't come unraveled. It looks really nice.

So, that's it so far, as I run across more items I feel could be done better, I'll post.

Until later ~

Reba

How to Cut Fabric With A Directional Design For A Professional Look

There are so many cute fabrics on the market today and many have fabulous large designs. I purchased some fabric last night to make a diaper bag. This bag will be a practice bag for me and if it turns out, I'll sell it on Etsy. I'm going to make a diaper bag for my daughter but she wants to pick out the fabric and she wants to be sure if it's a boy, we don't use any pink (we don't know if it's a girl or a boy yet). If this bag is really cute, she may make me wait until we find out...I'm using pink.

Anyway, back to cutting out a large print so the seams match and the print doesn't appear broken. Unfortunately I didn't realize that this would be a good post until after I cut out the fabric, but I purchased extra so I went back this morning and took some pics to reenact what I did.

First, I laid out the fabric unfolded. To do this correctly, I had to iron the fold out and make sure the selvages were flat. So first, iron your fabric. If you're making something that will be washed in the washing machine, it's important to pre-wash, especially cotton.

Since my specialty is purses and bags, I'm going to talk about making a bag, not something that will be worn.

Once you get all your pattern pieces in order, find the pieces that will be the front and the back. Start with the front piece and lay it on the fabric encompassing the part of the design that you want on the front. When doing this, try to get as close to the end of the fabric (where it was cut by the fabric store) and the selvage as possible. Otherwise you will waste more fabric than necessary.

For the pattern I'm working with, there is a pocket on the front with a flap. So I had to match where the flap meets the top of the bag and where the flap laps over the pocket, as well as where the back meets the top. I decided to not worry about the side pieces because both sides have a gathered pocket and matching would be almost impossible and probably frustrate me to no end. I also didn't worry about matching the bottom because even if I matched where it meets in the front, the direction on the print would change on the back and wouldn't match anyway.

So, I first laid out the flap on the fabric so I got the butterfly and a bird. That was my first piece and I matched everything to it. When cutting this first piece it is super important to make sure it is lined up with the grain of the fabric. If it's not perfectly lined up, you will never get a clean match on your other pieces.

To make sure your piece is lined up perfectly, measure from the grain line on the pattern to the edge of the selvage. Take that measurement several times along the grain line and make sure it's the same at the top of the line as the bottom.

I used my large clear ruler and made sure the grain line on the pattern was straight on one of the lines of the ruler and checked to be sure the edge of the fabric was straight as well. I adjusted everything until it was all lined-up. Then I pinned the fabric and cut it out.

Now find the repeat in the design and place your cut piece with the pattern still pinned and lay it on top of the fabric matching the print perfectly. 

First cut piece laid on top of fabric matching the design perfectly.
Adjust until perfectly matched to the fabric underneath.

Once it's lined up, take the pattern piece that will be sewed to it and place it on top of the already cut-out piece matching up the seam line. Most patterns will also have dots, match those dots. This will line up the pieces perfectly. Pin this next pattern piece in a couple of places and then you can remove the first piece. You are now ready to cut-out the next piece. See pics below.

For my diaper bag, I started with the pocket flap and matched the top piece (above). Then I used the pocket flap again to match where the flap hits the front of the pocket. It was a little more difficult to match this piece as the top of the flap and the top of the pocket are not on the same seam. So I had to use the front piece in conjunction with the flap to get the placement correct.

I'm altering the pattern somewhat to add the pocket. There was not a pocket pattern piece, instead a fold out pad was supposed to fold up under the flap. I didn't like it so I'm putting a pocket instead. At this point, if I had a pocket pattern piece, I would lay it on top of the front piece, then remove the other two pattern pieces without letting the pocket pattern piece move. Then I would pin and cut.

Since I didn't have a pattern piece, I cut using the front pattern piece and cut it short at the top where I thought the top of the pocket should stop. Here is a pic with the pocket front with the flap laying on top. When all is sewed together, the design on the pocket will flow to the front of the pocket.

Cool huh?

You'll then repeat for the back-side where it matches the top. I cut the back-side piece first and then cut the top to match. And since it was the back I considered fabric waste instead of the design.

Now, remember, in order to get the seams matched perfectly, you WILL need more fabric, how much is hard to say, at least one extra design repeat but I'd buy more, maybe two or three. If the design repeat is 12 inches, then buy at minimum, 1/3 yd extra, but to be safe at least 2/3 yd extra. If you sit down with the pattern before you purchase the fabric, you can figure it out more precisely but I still have a hard time with this and I'm good at math and geometry. You have to take into account how many seams need to be matched and what part of the fabric you want to show on the front.

Lastly, there may be other ways to do this but I have never been able to use any of them and get it right. I'd love to hear your technique if you can save fabric or time.

If you want to see larger versions of these pictures, just double click on the picture and it will open full-size on another page. Then click your back button to return to the post.

I'll post pics of the diaper bag when I'm done. I'm considering adding video to this site so I'd love for you to let me know if you'd like me to do a tutorial for this pattern on video. It will be a big job figuring out how to do video but I'm up for it. Please, let me know if something like this would benefit you - also, I'd love to know if you'd pay for access to videos like this and how much you'd be willing to pay - I'm still trying to figure out how to make a living sewing!

Until later ~

Reba

3 Best Interfacings I Use When Making Handbags

If you go to the Pellon website and click on the products link, you'll understand why it's so hard to figure out what interfacing to use when making your handbags. Counting how many different interfacings are made by just this one manufacturer, you'll count 61. Really? Are that many needed?

Well, maybe that many are needed when you look at all the things you can make where interfacing will make the project better. But, for the most part, when making handbags and purses, I only use three and I stock up on those three when I find them on sale.

I use Pellon brand fusible interfacings because fusible is easy to use and the Pellon brand is found at most fabric stores. So below you will find a little info about my fav three interfacings along with their item numbers. If you want to buy these items, you will find the item number on the end of the bolt to insure you buy the proper interfacing.

1. SF101 Shape-Flex® All Purpose Woven Fusible Interfacing - I use this interfacing on the linings of my handbags, it gives the fabric a little more strength, body, and stability. Since this interfacing is woven just like the cotton fabric used for the lining, it allows the fabric to move naturally, it's just stronger. It comes in white and black but I rarely use black, if you're using a cotton that is at least quilting weight, you usually can't see through it.
   
2. TP971F Fusible Thermolam® Plus Extra Loft Fusible Fleece Interfacing (if you want less loft, use 987F Fusible Fleece) - I use this interfacing on the exterior and straps of my handbags. It helps them to stand up and have shape while making the fabric cushy soft.
3. Peltex® Ultra Firm Heavy Weight Stabalizer - There are three options for Peltex, sew in with no fusible (Peltex 70), fusible on one side (Peltex 71F), and double side fusible (Peltex 72F), and depending on what you're making, you may buy any of them. I use Peltex for clutch purses, some wallets, and hard lining dividers.

If there's another brand or item you use for interfacing, let us know in the comments below. I hope this helps you choose which interfacing to buy next time you go to the fabric store to buy for your next handbag.

Soon I'll write about how to fuse the interfacings to your fabric. I wrote about it once before but I think it was embedded in a sew-along and I think it needs its own post.

I may or may not post this weekend, I'm going shopping on Saturday with my daughter who just told us she's having a baby! She's about 12 weeks along and wants to window shop at Babys R Us. Should be fun.

Until next time ~

Reba

Weave Technique to Create A New Fabric

Last night I tried a new technique I thought would be cool to use as a cover for a billfold or business card holder. It would also be nice used for the flap on a clutch purse. 

I used some scrap fabric and don't really like the two prints together but, with the right fabric, I think it will be very pretty. I snapped photos as I worked and thought I'd share. I need to put together a tutorial to post on Pellon Projects, so I think I will use this technique to make fabric for the outside of a business card holder. When I do that project, I will pick some better fabrics and post the info to the tutorial.

Here I'll handle like I did the Molly Handbag Sew-Along - I'll post the picture and caption it with the instructions. This is really easy and can give some projects a new dimension and texture.

First cut two pieces of fabric the same size. Mine were 10 x 13, a square piece would be good too. Make sure they are ironed and wrinkle free. You can add spray starch if you like as it may make the strips easier to handle when weaving.

Next, take one piece and lay it right-side down on the cutting mat or table. Measure about 1/2 inch from one edge and draw a line parallel with the edge. Starting at the edge opposite your line, cut wavy lines about 1 to 2 inches apart up to the line you drew. The edge that was not cut will hold all the strips together.

On your second piece of fabric, lay it face down and opposite the direction of the first piece. For example, if your fabric is 15x10 inches, and on the first piece your strips are 15 inches long, on the second piece you will cut so that your strips are 10 inches long. Cut the same as for the first piece except cut all the way through. Keep your pieces in the same order that you cut them as you want to weave them into the other fabric with the same cut edges touching.

Second pieces is cut all the way through.

Now start weaving your strips through the first piece. To get the pieces to touch and be tight, use the eraser end of a pencil to push the fabrics together.

Continue weaving keeping the pieces from the second piece of fabric in the same order that they were cut.

Keep weaving until you've used all the strips you can use.

Continue to use the eraser to push the pieces close together.

 

Move your woven piece to the ironing board, right-side down.

If the weave loosened during the move, use your eraser to tighten up everything.

Lay a piece of fusible interfacing on top with the fusible side down. Fuse it to the backside of your weave. I used Pellon Deco-Bond and it worked nicely.

Once interfaced, take it to your sewing machine and use a satin stitch over every edge. I sewed all edges going one direction and then I turned the piece and did all the edges going the other direction. I used a zig-zag stitch that had a width of 5.0 mm and stitch length of .5 mm. A contrasting thread looks very nice. Be sure the satin stitch overlaps both edges where the fabrics meet.

Here's where I turned and went the other direction. I just sewed right over the satin stitching going the other direction.

Finished~now, if I had used the right color fabrics, this would look pretty great. But like I said before, these were scraps that didn't necessarily go together.

So, to conclude, and I'll say again, I don't really like the fabrics I used, I was just using scraps and playing around. However, I'm going to do this for a business card cover and when I make that cover I'm going to use some fabrics that coordinate, maybe two solids, I'm not sure yet. In making the cover, I think I can just cut it out like it is a regular piece of fabric - we'll see won't we? I'm going to add a lining and then I'm going to satin stitch around the edge. We'll see how it turns out, I'll definitely let you see the finished project.

Until next time ~

Reba

Questions About Molly Handbag Pattern

I just finished adding the Molly Handbag Pattern to my blog as a free gift for signing up for my new mailing list. See the sign-up form over to the right? If you haven't signed-up, when you do, you will receive the pattern for free.

Anyway, inevitably there will be some questions about construction. I'm sure I missed something somewhere. So I'm making this post so you will have a place to ask questions. Just post your question below, I will get an email, and just as soon as I can, I will answer here on this page.

Remember, I work a full-time job during the day, so I may not get to answer until the evening. But I will get to it, please be patient.

I'd also like to hear from you with any other comments, good or bad. Just post. This is your page.

Thank you to everyone who has and will download Molly. I so enjoyed making her and hope you will as well.

Until later ~

Reba

Sewing A Curve

When I was making the Wavy Zip Top Tote designed by Bethany Rapp of Sweet Bee Buzzings, I thought it might be helpful for you to see detail of how I sewed the curve, so I took pics.

First, notice that the band and the main piece both were cut with the same curve. I was tempted to place the right sides together matching the curves. Not all curves will have cuts that are the same but for this project I could have easily goofed up. Had I done that, instead of the pretty wave between the main piece and the band that lays flat, I would have gotten a pooch that either pooched in or out.

Instead, as Bethany explains in her instructions, lay both pieces on the table like a puzzle, side by side as if they were already sewn. Then turn the top piece over onto the main piece. The curves will be opposite of each other almost leading you to believe that there is no way they can be sewn together.

Well think again, they can go together, you just have make it happen. When I was sewing this tote, I marked the middle of both pieces with a pin by folding them in half and putting a pin on the fold. I then matched the pins together and pinned the two pieces together at that point and worked outward, one side and then starting in the middle again working outward to the other end.

You just match the fabric and pin, then move a little along the fabric matching and pinning. You will need to manipulate the fabric with your fingers somewhat. Use lots of pins.

Then, it's a little hard to sew. The fabric will want to pleat in some places especially where there are tight curves. You just have to work it with your fingers and go slow. If it should pleat, just continue on to the end. Then go back and rip out the portion with the pleat with your seam ripper and resew it.

After sewing - clip the curves. This will help it lay flat and take away stress on the seam making it stronger.

Most items you'll sew that have a curve will look good with a topstitch and that will hold the seam down on the inside and help the curve to lay flat. Before topstitching, iron the seam to the side where the topstitching will go. Then the topstitching will hold the seam flat. Sorry, forgot to get a pic for that.

Good luck with your project.

Until later ~

Reba

Topstitching

I remove the pins as I sew.

I mentioned in my post this morning that I wanted to do a post about topstitching. Topstitching is not easy for me, it seems the slower I go the more I get off track. But going fast doesn't help either! So, I had to find a way to help me make the line straight.

Most of you can probably use the methods shown in Wendi Gratz's very good video tutorial and do just fine, so I thought I would give you a link to that tutorial on her website, Shiny Happy World. She shows you how to have the edge of your fabric follow the edge of your presser foot or to place blue painter's tape on your machine so you have a line to feed the edge of your fabric against. Very good information as is all the tutorials found on her site.

Satin Stitch Foot

Use the edge to guide the edge of your fabric.

However, then there are those who still can't get it straight, like me. So I found another way. I happened on this only because my sewing machine came with a satin stitch foot.  Take a look at my photos, I hope you can see what I'm talking about. Down the center of the bottom side of the foot there is a tunnel. Basically there are two strips of metal on each side of the foot that run parallel with the stitch. These metal strips rest on the fabric leaving the center of the foot hollow. This creates a tunnel for the satin stitch to run through.

The edge of each piece of metal is 1/8th inch from the needle on both sides. I use that edge to run the edge of my fabric against and the stitch goes exactly 1/8th inch from the edge. It works perfectly, I hardly have to guide the fabric at all and I get perfectly straight topstitching.

My machine is a low shank presser foot and the different feet just snap on and snap off. Easy as pie. I trade feet back and forth constantly changing to the correct foot as needed.

If you have a satin stitch presser foot, give it a try.

Until later ~

Reba

The Interfacing is Fused - Ready to Sew

Fusible side of interfacing on wrong side of fabric

I'm still working on the "Sew Along" over at Sweet Bee Buzzings. Bethany posted instructions yesterday but I didn't get a chance to work on it yesterday. Here's a link to Part 1. I worked for about 1-1/2 hours tonight and got all the interfacing fused to the cut-out pieces, as well as pinning the loop straps and shoulder straps. I'm ready to sew but I'll save that for tomorrow. It's hard to work at my full-time job all day and then spend too many hours sewing - I'm tired!

Bethany didn't say much about using interfacing so I thought I'd fill-in. I just started making purses and even though I've been sewing for years, I didn't know what kind of interfacing to use when I made my first purse. That's where Amy Butler's Style Stitches book was very good. She not only tells you what kind of interfacing to use, she gives you the manufacturer and the stock number so you know you have the right stuff.

After using several kinds of interfacing for both my purses and my Kindle covers, I've learned a lot. For this purse I'm using fusible WOVEN interfacing by Pellon - Shape Flex SF-101. It's 20" wide and when you buy it you'll see that it's not folded in half like the fabrics. I purchased mine at JoAnn's and it's $4.99 a yard.

Woven interfacing is perfect for purses as it's woven like fabric so it moves like fabric. It's not too heavy but gives your fabric a heaviness that purses need. It makes them feel like they have quality without making it stiff.

The fusible fleece I purchased is fusible Pellon Thermolam. Again, JoAnn's and it cost $8.99 a yard, yeah, I know, not cheap. It is 54" wide so it's actually cheaper per square foot than the woven interfacing. Both types of interfacings are essential in making your purse look good.

Hold iron for a 10-count. Press cloth should be dry.

When fusing the interfacing to your cut pieces, use a wet piece of quilting cotton as a press cloth. Place the fusible side of the interfacing to the wrong side of your fabric with the interfacing on top. Place the wet press cloth on top of that. Heat your iron to the hottest steam setting and place it on top of the wet press cloth while you count to 10 slowly. Move the iron to a new spot overlapping the old spot, count to 10, repeat. When you have gone over the entire piece, turn it over and press it on the right side of the fabric from the middle out to the outer edges.

When you're pressing, the press cloth should be dry after the 10 count. If it's not dry, you may need to hold the iron a few seconds longer. Be sure to cover the entire pattern piece especially the edges. Be patient, this is not a fast process but it really makes a huge difference in how your purse turns out. Like I said above, all I did tonight was fuse the interfacings and I worked on it for 90 minutes. Never even stitched a stitch and I was tired...of standing at the ironing board.

I'll report back tomorrow. I'm going to try to get through Bethany's first day post and maybe get caught up with her on Thursday.

Until later ~

Reba

Sweet Bee Buzzings - Sew Along - Got Mine Cut Out

So, how far have you gotten on the Sew Along Project over at Sweet Bee Buzzings? I got mine cut out on Saturday but didn't have time to do any more. We had a party last night and I had tons of other things I needed to do.

I checked in at Sweet Bee this morning and there was a post explaining that there was an error in the pattern. Here's the post with the adjustments, be sure to read it before you start sewing, preferably before you cut. At first I got a bit tense but then read on and found that it's totally fixable even if you've already cut out the pattern, which I had. So if you're just getting started or if you already cut it out, be sure to check this post for the adjustments.

I thought I'd talk a little about my method of cutting out this pattern. I'm making the large bag.

I worked with the lining fabric first. I first cut my loop straps by measuring 4-1/2" and cutting cross-grain (long-grain runs with the selvage and cross-grain is perpendicular to the selvage). That gave me one piece that was 4-1/2" x 44". Then I cut that down to three 14" pieces. The pattern called for four 4-1/2" x 14" pieces so I ended up cutting the last one from elsewhere.

I then cut the shoulder straps in the same manner.  I had to make two cross-grain cuts getting two 4-1/2" x 44" strips and then cut those down to 32".

Next I took the remainder of the fabric and opened it up so it would lay flat out in a single layer with no fold. It's easiest to do this on a big table or if you're young or flexible (not like me), you can do it on the floor. Then fold the fabric pulling the selvages toward the crease where the middle fold was. Your folds will run parallel with the selvage. You only have to fold over enough so that you can lay your pattern on the fold and have it fit on the folded part of the fabric. Fold both selvages toward the middle crease and you will now have two folds to use for cutting instead of one in the same length of fabric. In between the two selvages you will have a single layer of fabric you can use for other pieces like the pockets, straps etc.

I went one step further and folded the fabric again in the middle. That allowed me to cut both pieces needed at the same time.

I then cut the zip pocket and the other loop strap utilizing the piece that was between the selvages after doing my two folds above. I had plenty of fabric.

I followed the same steps with the main (exterior) fabric only cutting what was needed per the instructions (no straps). Then the interfacing pieces.

Since there was a lot of interfacing to cut as well, and working four different sets of fabric/interfacing, it probably took me a couple hours to get this done but I'm not real sure, I forgot to time it. Sewing is the one thing I like doing so much that I lose time doing it. It seems like five minutes have gone by but hours will have passed.

I'm so tired tonight that I just might go to bed without sewing (remember, party last night) but I'll be back tomorrow to let you know what I get done tomorrow night.

Until later ~

Reba